When Jan Schneidewind goes back to basics it’s a winner, especially when his inspiration is Escoffier. The quality ingredients are given VIP treatment and presented in a way that brings out the best they have to offer. This came through in the celery, wild mushrooms and egg parfait that was indeed perfectly divine. The matured beef, weighed and cut in the dining room, was accompanied by a béarnaise sauce and delicious French fries. As for the crème brulée, with the rich vanilla and crunch you hope will be there, it remained creamy to the core. Classics maybe, but why revise them when they’re already this good! The service is in the hands of a complementary duo and crowned by the graciousness and flair of Sébastien Perié, our Host of the Year 2020.