One never tires of a visit to the home of a two-time Chef of the Year, especially when the chef is Italian. Even in winter, there's a Mediterranean mood here that awakens senses that have fallen dormant in the bad weather. Everything here is simple but carefully choreographed, and every detail is meticulous, whether it's the fish and shellfish, whose pearlescent cooking sublimates their aromas, the vegetables or pasta, al dente yet glazed, or the meats, which couldn’t be more succulent or flavoursome. The chef's playful side readily comes out to play, with his vision of breakfast and the hazelnut spread he made as a child, and you'll love his desserts and petits fours, where his mastery of the art of chocolate-making puts him among the best in the country. We start with a whole host of appetisers, including the diaphanous red cabbage crisp to share, or the irresistible pistachio and caviar ice cream. The lobster is only just warmed and pearly, bringing out all its aromas. A wagyu with extraordinary juicy fat is glazed with a sauce and seasoned to perfection. Oh, and don’t come away without experiencing the collection of old parmesans and exceptional balsamic vinegars.